Aside from the gathering of many American street rods, hot rods and various other collectible cars, there is also plenty of stall holders flogging off their treasures that have been hiding in their sheds over the years.
A lot of it is the stuff you normally find at any swap meet like this, old grilles for 50′s and 60′s cars, tools from a bygone area, wheels, flathead V8′s, motorparts for all but forgotten vehicles and the usual array of T shirts, jackets, vests and jewellery.

Still, the quality of the cars on display and even in the car park was supurb.

One person other than me was in total awe of many of the cars, my wife. She comes from Europe, Bulgaria, you just don’t see early American or Australian cars there.

If you have never given much thought as to how your last ride would be. Give some consideration to a open air ride behind a Harley… might be better than a stuffy ol’ Hurse!

This year was marked with the celebration of Hot Rod Art by Thom Taylor.

Thom Taylor attended the rod run on Saturday, and was at the Meeanee Speedway Swap Meet and show venue on Sunday for autographs.

Thom is renowned for his drawings and hot rod designs.
For me I like the work he did with Ed ‘Newt’ Newton and the book Crazy Cars and Mad Monsters.
These type of cartoons are very reminiscent of the drawings by Ed Roth – the creator of Rat Fink.

Just as we where leaving I spotted a group of people hanging around a table with what looked like radio control cars.
A closer look and there was a couple of Mugen Truggy’s and a few touring cars on a bench.
What I didn’t expect to see was the 1/5 scale Sprint cars. Hand built chassis fitted with 30cc modified engines.

Apparently (I didn’t get to see it) they race on there own oval circuit inside the main Speedway track situated there at Meeanee.

Now that would be a sight to watch a field of 15, 1/5 scale, Sprint cars hooking it up and jostling for the chequered flag.

These oval dirt track cars might be worth a closer look.

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RC drift car racing has been on the rise for more than a couple of years now and I have been watching with delight as it has gained more and more popularity.

I first saw it in action in Japan 5 years ago, and it was crazy action back then. At the time I had my focus on other things so my new interest in RC drift racing was pushed to one side.

Fast forward to 2011 and Singapore where I accidentally fell across drift rc cars again while my wife and I where cruising one of those super malls selling all things electronic. It sparked my interest again…

Since then I have been watching the rc drift scene with a lot more than just mild interest. The fact that they are electric, run all but silently and dont give off huge plumes of smoke is irrelevant.

As a beginner it would be almost futile to choose a nitro car so the alternative is electric and the choices are many.

Interestingly enough the biggest interest for rc drift comes from Indonesia and surrounding Asian countries followed very closely by Australia and Eastern Europe (Lithuania, Ukraine, Czech Republic)

US do not rank in the top 10. Surprising!

With a continual growth in the sport it is no wonder that RC manufacturers are scrambling to build better drift models.
Companies like HPI, Yokomo and Tamiya are just 3 that come to mind all have new releases either recently or up coming.

This leads to me the question that has been on my mind for months and ultimately on the mind of anyone wanting to enter the RC drift craze.

That question is What car do I want to drift?

Having done some research (ok hours of trolling the net and forums) I took on what others in the sport have said and for me, as a beginner, my first pick is the Tamiya TT01D Silvia Coppermix.

 

Why?

Outa the box the car is all but ready to drift. Get some setup specs and really you’re off practising…. easy as that!

Of course there is plenty of spares and option parts available.

The guy in the local hobby store even had one as his own pet play toy in store. Gotta say something, as he can choose from any number of top line brands, not saying Tamiya is not up there.

Tamiya have a history dating back to 1948, so they know a thing or 3 about model cars.

In the up coming Shizouka Hobby Show (May 2012) it’s suspected that Tamiya will release a new version of their TA05 platform the TA05 VDF 2

I found this over at Drift Mission

and don’t forget to head over to CS Junkies and check this thread on it.

What’s your choice as a beginner RC drift car?

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While I’m not a big fan of motorsport crashes, those real rock crawlers can put on one heck of a show.

RC Rock crawling does little to inspire me, sure I like the crawlers and the idea but they just fail to inspire me when they do their thing. Maybe ’cause there is no noise involved. Noise means power. Doesn’t it?

Whereas those V8 ear deafening 4×4 hill climbing rock crawlers like that of Tim Cameron’s, just to name one, are super impressive to watch (on video) First opportunity this dude gets to see these things in action and I am so there!

Anyhoo…. since I had been catching up on some of the action thought I’d share this short 6min clip of some of the mishaps that these boys do – quite entertaining and no one gets hurt.

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Finding alternative bodies for your 1/5 scale SC truck has for many owners been all but a no go, especially those who own a Losi 5IVE T.

A couple weeks ago I saw a press release over at Large Scale News previewing a new body for the Losi 5IVE T from a company named Hemistorm
When I first read it I thought this has to be cool, a definite way to make your truck stand out from the pack. Read this first paragraph from the press release at Large Scale News…

WOW, this one came out of thin air. Hemistorm is officially the first company to hit the market with an alternative body shell for the Losi 5IVE-T. And when I say alternative I mean not only an alternative to the stock body but to a truck. They guys came out of the gate swinging with a full on Class 1 style buggy body that is a direct bolt-on to the stock roll cage… Continue reading

Image via Big Squid RC

Now don’t get me wrong I thought this was great, except I saw the price…Uulp!
That price equated to nearly the cost of a new engine, remember we talking clear lexan body here no paint or graphics AND the light rail and bumper are priced on top of that. Anyway….

Hemistorm Penta Body -  what you get!

The main body consists of 5 pieces: A front section, a roof section, two doors and the rear panel. The front section, doors and rear section have all been detailed with louvre-styled “airscoops“. The front section encloses a part of the rollcage, emphasizing the open cage structure of the vehicle. The doors close all the way up to the rock guard, and together with the closed off front section the amount of debris entering the chassis will be kept to an absolute minimum. The roof section is reinforced with 8 barsections to ensure your paintjobs will keep unscratched as long as possible in case of a rollover.

The pictures used for the pre-release did not exactly have me foaming at the mouth wanting more.
What made me think there was possibly something better to come was this piece from the press release.

These rough prototypes don’t fully represent the finished structure, they are merely meant to give an idea of the shape and look we envisioned while working on this enormous project.

Image via Large Scale News

So glad I didn’t fully voice an opinion on it back then.
Because that was then and this is now, the ugly buggling morphed into this

Images via Large Scale Forum

Click on the above link for a whole heap more pics. Well worth the look!

Now that is eye candy! (we ARE talking RC’s r’member)

I thought Hemistorm would have pics over there and maybe a tutorial on what they had done – Nothing. Now don’t fret ’cause you can see all that went into this paint job over at the  Large Scale forum. (That link just above)

That Class 1 buggy body is an attention grabber. Looking at the Losi 5IVE T kitted out with sand tires, bead-locks and the awesome custom paint job, makes the price of the body not nearly as shocking.

Now consider this, the dude spent 50 – 60 hours prepping and custom painting that Penta body. Do some quick calc in you head (say a good custom painter costs $100/hr. I know those that charge more), so 60 x 100 = 6000 ‘ a $6k paint job!!!!

Makes the initial purchase price seem lame.
Just sayin!

Articles of Interest

HPI Baja 5SC

Redcat Rampage XT

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Yes another Nitro to Electric conversion – Okay so it’s nothing new!

…though, firstly I gotta say the Mugen MBX6T Truggy out of the box is a racers dream. Plenty of carbon fibre and alloy parts, setup sheets, the stuff you normally add as hop ups all comes standard with this 1/8 scale racing truggy.

Image source

We all know why racers and bashers alike convert from nitro to electric, less maintenance and cheaper running costs, blah, blah, blah but I did have a small chuckle at the name of the kit “Eco Conversion Kit”. Now we are going ‘Green’ in RC

Converting this all but faultless truggy from nitro power to electric is from what I have seen, relatively easy. This remains to be proven though in the anticipated next video from RC Nightmare.

What I can say is

The Mugen MBX6T eco conversion kit is more that just an added motor mount and battery holder. It comes complete with new alloy chassis, motor mount, pinion and spur gear and radio plate…..

Let’s not spoil what Brandon from RC Nightmare has to say, watch the video

In light of this video review I think the Mugen MBX6T has great potential as a nitro to petrol conversion using the HPI 1/8 gas engine. Which is my real reason for writing today.
At the moment this is just a hypothetical idea, of mine,  as the 1/8  gas engine has not hit the stores yet (not that I’m aware of)

My Reasoning

If the eco conversion kit cost $135 or so plus the cost of the electric motor, ESC and batteries etc. Price is getting up there when you include the initial purchase cost of the kit truggy and extras.

Then to my way of thinking converting to petrol would only involve a petrol motor such as HPI’s, as it comes with all electrics included. This should be a lot cheaper than the electric conversion.

Two stroke engines are also reasonably reliable (HPI’s has yet to be proven) and maintenance free.

Check out the specs of the 1/8 scale gasoline engine

Have I overlooked something?

Just my thoughts, what do you think?

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Ok, HPI Baja fans, have you seen the latest billet alloy release by Turtle Racing?

Many of you may have experienced clutch and gear problems like breaking of pinion bolts, melting of spurs, blown out bearings, sand filled clutches, cracked spur plates and more on your Bajas.

Largescalenews have some great pics and coverage of the press release for the new Turtle Racing V2 HD Clutch System.

Your days of driveline problems could be over go and check this cool billet alloy HD clutch upgrade out now!

Not sure what it is or how to install it see the video tutorial at Turtle Racing

While on the subject of 2 stroke upgrades. I hope you have got your radar on scan for the release date of the NEW 1/8 scale 2 stroke engine by HPI. You should have seen the pre-release version of it posted all over the RC web back in February from the Nurnberg International Toy Fair

Think of a standard nitro engine…and now imagine:
More than double the runtime…
Cheaper fuel costs…
Widely available fuel…
Easier starting…
No tuning hassle…
Quieter running…
Cleaner running…

The brand new HPI 1/8th scale Gasoline Engine engine combines these fantastic properties with all the excitement of an all-new petrol engine!

Will you you be hauling that ol’ nitro outa ya Savage XL and replacing it with one of these?

Time will tell.

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It all Got Downsized…Except the Power!

Review of the 1/16 Traxxas E Revo VXL

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So, you have an itch to build a RC car kit.

You have done the remote control toy thing, maybe moved on to the RTR version radio control cars, trucks and buggies. Whatever your background you now want to build a RC car kit. You even know what type of car you want to build, except you are not sure what tools and extra materials you are going to need, what radio gear to treat your soon to be completed kit or what batteries you want use.

Everybody has their own preferences to all these things and generally none of them are wrong so don’t panic. What ever you choose can always be changed later. Building a RC car from kit takes time and patience, the benefits are your knowledge of your car will be greatly improved you will appreciate the maintenance required to keep it going and your completed car will be unique to you as it is your choice of what hop ups and other customizable parts you decide to install while building it.

A Tool Kit for Your RC Car Kit

If you have not already got them, you are going to need a few tools to build your new kit RC. Some of the tools are supplied with the kits.

Here are some tools you will need…

• Small soldering iron and soldier
• Tire glue
• Loctite threadlocker – blue
• Craft knife
• Screw drivers – flat blade and Phillips
• Long nose pliers
• Hex wrenches
• Marker pen
• Scissors
• Hole punches or reamer

…on top of those you will also require the materials to prep and paint your body.

• Masking tape
• Spray paints (colors you want to paint your body)
• Solvent to remove over spray – be careful it does not melt your body.

Jaing from Ultimaterc.com shows you how to set up a good work area to build your kit.

What Else Does Your RC Car Kit Need?

Most kits do not come with radio gear, batteries or chargers. Depending on the make of the kit there maybe other things you will require like tires and wheels, motor, speed controller, servos.

Do not worry to much about what you need to add to a kit as most kits clearly state what is required for completion.

Choosing the radio gear is almost as much fun as choosing the kit. There are many different makes and models to choose from. My advice is at least start with an entry level digital radio system similar to the ones supplied with most RTRs these days. Two channel 2.4GHz wheel type.

Keep your eyes open on the specials to be had from any of your local or online  hobby shops.

Batteries – if you are building an electric kit you will require batteries.  NiMH are cheap but LiPo’s are better because of the longer run times and faster speeds they can give your car. Make sure your speed control is LiPo compatible.

Battery charger. Buy a good peak detection type that will charge NiMH and LiPo batteries.

If you are building a RC car kit that is nitro or gas engine powered you will require a battery pack and charger for your receiver unit. Ultimately these should come with the radio gear you purchase, truth is they often don’t.

Electric Motors. By now you should know there are two types, brushed and brushless. If you want the best performance for your money, with low maintenance, brushless motors are the way to go. Choosing the size and the pinion gear to suit is another one of your builder decisions to make.

Nitro Engines. The kit you are building will recommend the size engine for the car. Mostly these recommendations are in line with the racing rules for the type of racing your car is designed for. It will be your choice as to the brand you decide to use. Sticking to the same brand as the kit has advantages if you require help from the company support line.

Gas/Petrol Engines. A variety of engine sizes are available and as with the other two, electric and nitro, you will have to choose one that suits your race purposes. The engines are two stroke pre-mix type, with hand pull start.

You have got the car type sorted! But, there are a couple of brands with the same car type that you really like. Which one to choose?

Key recommendation here is to go with the brand that can readily supply you with spare parts you need. Check with you local hobby shop and online stores to see if they stock parts for your future model.

Secondly look for excellent customer support. You can test this by sending an email or calling their support line. If you email them take note of the response time and did they answer your question. If calling by the phone just be truthful and tell them you are just checking to see if you get a real person or an automated answer machine.

Getting excellent customer support can make the difference between an enjoyable or regrettable RC car kit build.

Best Places for Research

RC car magazines are a great source of information and they give reviews which often list the pro’s and con’s of many kits and RTRs. They are often better than using the computer as they are 100% on topic.

Another place to get really good advice is online forums. Check a few out and join in the conversations. Ask some questions about things you are unsure of. The answers you get back are often from other users that have had personal experience with the same problem themselves.

You have done the research and taken the plunge and purchased your first RC car kit.

Unpack it and careful lay out all the parts. Check that you have all the parts you are supposed to have with the kit.
Using the manual that came supplied with your kit familiarize yourself with the parts.

This not a time for thinking that you know how it all goes together…..and then when all else fails….. read the manual, no!

Follow the manuals instructions, right from the beginning. It really does make for a smoother build process.

Upon completion of your new radio control car kit, keep all manuals and reference materials as these will have maintenance and repair tips and a parts list with part numbers.

These tips and parts lists will help you keep your new kit RC running at top performance.

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Nitro Engine Tuning Tips for the Beginner

To really know nitro engine tuning will take time and patience.

In theory, I mean by what you read, the process of adjusting the nitro engine carburetor to obtain peak running performance is simple. Reality is quite the opposite.

Adjusting the high speed and low speed needles, setting the idle screw and getting the engine to maintain an idle can get very confusing even for the experienced nitro engine tuner.

TIP: Before you start playing with needle settings, get yourself a notepad and write down exactly what your carb settings are BEFORE you start your nitro engine tuning.
Now if you don’t know what they are, set them to the manufacturers specs. If you don’t have the specs on hand you can start with a basic setting of one turn out on the low speed and 3 out on the high speed needle. Also make sure the idle screw has been fully backed off and then, only put an 1/8 of a turn on it from fully closed throttle.

For those with a new engine you will need to complete your engine break-in first. New nitro engines often run erratically at first and this makes them hard to tune. In most cases 2-3 tanks of fuel through the engine is all it takes for the engine to settle down.

Nitro Engine Tuning - Carb adjustment needles: Photo source radiocontrol.wikia.com

Low Speed Needle – this needle meters the fuel rate from idle to 1/4 throttle.

High Speed Needle – this needle meters the fuel rate from 1/4 throttle to full throttle or wide open throttle (WOT) as it is often referred to.

Idle Screw – with the throttle servo in neutral, this adjusts the throttle position to obtain a constant idle after the high and low speed needles have been set.

Let’s Get into Nitro Engine Tuning

During this tuning period you may foul your glow plug, so it is best to keep a couple of new ones close at hand.

I prefer to start with the high speed needle. Firstly because often you are forced to keep the engine revving to prevent stalling, setting this first takes some of the confusion away about what the engine is doing.
It also clears the engine of excess fuel and other contaminants that can hinder performance and make setting the low speed hard.

This first run will give you a good indication as to what your engine is doing.

1. When you pull the throttle to full there should be nice trail of blue/white smoke coming from the exhaust.
2. If your engine wants to stall when at full throttle it is to rich.
3. The engine seems to run well at full throttle but there is little smoke from the exhaust, it is too lean.

If the engine seems to take full throttle and there is a nice blue/white smoke trail you will want to lean the high speed needle by an 1/8 of a turn (screw it in clockwise) and recheck the run. Did the performance improve or worsen?
If it improved repeat the above step until it worsens, then back the high speed needle out (counterclockwise) to the setting it was at before performance dropped. This step should also be done in conjunction with a temperature gauge, although not completely necessary.

The engine wanted to stall at full throttle. Good sign it is too rich. Screw the high speed needle in 1/8 of a turn (clockwise) and repeat the run. Continue to do this until it is too lean as in the above step.

Your engine is running great but emits a little or no smoke from the exhaust. Good sign it is to lean and probably overheating. To richen the mixture, screw the high speed needle out (counterclockwise) 1/8 of a turn. Continue to do the runs and adjustments until the engine wants to stall at full throttle. Then return to it’s best performance setting with good exhaust smoke.

Nitro Engine Tuning for Low Speed

After the high speed needle has been set the engine is warm and running crisp it is time to set the low speed.

1. Firstly does the engine idle?
2. If so, does it idle for a few seconds then stall?
3. Or does it idle fast?

If the engine idles, even for a few seconds, or stalls immediately then it is to rich. Screw the low speed needle in (clockwise) 1/8 or a turn. Recheck.

Engine idles but is sluggish to accelerate, again slightly rich.

Idles fast. Good indication that it is running lean.Screw the low speed needle out (counter clockwise) 1/8 of a turn. Repeat until you can get the engine idling for 30 – 45 seconds.

There should be no smoke at idle.

Setting the idle screw

Now you have the low speed set, setting the idle is easy.
Screw the idle screw in (clockwise) 1/4 turn. The engine will increase in RPM but the clutch should not engage (the vehicle should not want to move).
With the increase in RPM the engine should continue to fast idle and not stall.

I will not mislead you – personally I combine idle setting with the final adjustment of the low speed needle. For simplicity I will continue to explain as a stand alone setting.

Slowly back the idle screw off to reduce RPM and obtain a continuous idle without stalling.
Do not worry if you settle for a fast idle, so long as the clutch is not engaging it is ok.
As I said adjusting the low speed screw and idle screw together will obtain a continuous idle.

Because you have been writing down all the adjustments you have been making, during your nitro engine tuning, you will now know where your engine runs best and what the settings on the carburetor for this are.
When you become confident all this can be done in a matter of minutes and the adjustments taken mentally and only having to write down your final settings.

Nitro Engine Life

A nitro engines performance and life are reliant on tune and maintenance.
Tune your engine to run at it’s peak performance. Running it too rich just gives you an under performing engine. Thinking it will last longer is counter productive to what you want from your engine. There is also problems with over-cooling.
However running a nitro engine lean to increase performance only results in premature engine wear and over heating.
Adding after run oil to your engine is the best preventative maintenance you can do.

Remember engine tuning nitros is more a hands on learned skill, done by a sense of feel and listening.
Treat what you read as a guide only. Use common sense and most of all have FUN.

Nitro Engine Tuning Video

There are many good videos on YouTube about nitro engine turning. The one below  explains and demonstrates quickly and easily how it is all done.

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Apache C1 4WD RTR

The HPI APACHE C1 4WD BUGGY is the ultimate in 1/8th scale desert and all-terrain fun!
With a suspension system that has RACE DNA from the World Championship Winning HB D8 buggy combined with FLUX Brushless power 4WD, it’s ready for action. Add the legendary HPI durability and you have yourself a no-compromise, bash-proof 4WD machine for all day, all-terrain fun.
Rounding off the package are scale replica Yokohama Geolandar off-road tires and a detailed, pre-painted realistic desert buggy cage-style body, complete with spare tire and driver and co-driver figures!

The Apache C1 is modelled on the full-size ‘Class 1′ desert racing buggies that run in the actual Baja 1000 long-distance races. This scale version is based on the HB D8 buggy and the HPI Vorza. The D8 is a World Champion and the Vorza is a Guinness World Record holder! The unique monocoque suspension arms, race-winning suspension with Big Bore shocks and super-durable shaft 4WD drivetrain all combine to make a durable and versatile chassis that can handle whatever you and the track can throw at it!

The Q-Base ESC and Alphastar 2350Kv brushless motor can handle twin 2S LiPo battery packs to let the Apache C1 really stretch its legs on any on-road or off-road surface, thanks to the scale all-terrain tires. With dual batteries fitted into the adjustable battery box, you can pack up to 14.8 volts of power into the car to experience wild acceleration, huge rooster tails of dirt and awesome top speeds!

When you’re ready to get a step up on the competition, the Apache C1 is ready to be fitted with the full range of Hara Edition D8 option parts from Team HB to give you even more tuning options!

Some of the Best Features of the Apache C1

2.4GHz Radio
The Apache C1 is equipped with a high quality HPI 2.4GHz radio system. 2.4GHz technology provides you with the best possible vehicle operation and control, without the need of crystals, just turn on your radio and drive. Racing in large groups is possible without running into any frequency conflicts.

ALPHASTAR 2350Kv BRUSHLESS MOTOR
The Flux Alphastar 2350Kv Brushless Motor is one-half of the Flux Brushless system that is fitted as standard equipment in the Apache C1, forming an unstoppable power force for amazing off-road power! The Flux 2350 motor is optimized for 4S LiPo power, making it one of the biggest and most powerful brushless motors available, and was selected specifically for its massive power delivery and voltage handling.

Q-BASE BRUSHLESS ESC
The Flux Q-Base Brushless ESC is one-half of the Flux Brushless system that is fitted as standard equipment in the Apache SC, forming an unstoppable power force for amazing off-road power!

WATERPROOF STEERING SERVO
This extra-strong, waterproof servo is ideal for bashers and racers looking for a super-tough and extra-durable servo for absolutely any kind of condition.

WATERPROOF RADIO BOX
Waterproof receiver box with built-in transponder mount and antenna mount

INNOVATIVE BATTERY BOX
Foam padded battery box for battery protection, hook and loop closures for quick battery changes.

YOKOHAMA GEOLANDER TIRES
Officially licensed by Yokohama and featuring the exclusive sidewall markings and tread design of their famous Geolandar tires, these are the ultimate in scale realism!

FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS
Front and rear sway bars for precise handling and adjustability

ADJUSTABLE 16MM BIG BORE SHOCKS
16mm Big Bore shocks with threaded bodies for precise suspension tuning

MONOCOQUE STYLE SUSPENSION ARMS
Innovative monocoque suspension arm design for extra strength and protection from dirt & mud

You can see more of this dirt busting Apache C1 buggy at HPI Racing

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